Brassy Hair and the Best Ways to Prevent

We’ve covered topics from the hair color wheel to hair structure and ph scale. Next on our list? Underlying pigment. It’s one of the most important things to consider when formulating hair color. Surely, as oftentimes forgot about, it’s time to understanding and utilize underlying pigment.  


When a stylist alters hair from its original color, the underlying pigment is exposed. Each formula starts with warmth from the hair. It’s up to you to decide whether to enhance or control it.  


Beauty School Remix offers a color theory lesson detailing the importance of Underlying Pigment. By enrolling, you’ll learn:


  • Why the Cortex is Important
  • The Two Types of Melanin
  • What “Brassy” Really Means
  • The Level System
  • How Heather thinks about Underlying Pigment
  • Two Formulation Examples

The underlying pigment does not shadow away from utilizing your knowledge of hair-related anatomy. Remember our conversation about the cortex? (If you don’t, be sure to read this (link to can you dye wet hair after publish.) We know melanin is responsible for the pigment of natural hair. So, when formulas are strong enough to reach the cortex, their job is to displace and replace melanin. It should be noted that there are two types of melanin, both described in detail within the course.



the hair brassiness and the best way to prevent it

You’ve had a client complain about her hair “always turning brassy” or “always pulling warm”. What do you do? Control the warmth with your formula.


What is hair brassiness, and how can you prevent it? In particular, brassy or red tones come with the territory the moment you start messing with the cortex. Basically, failing to control the warmth will result in undesired brassy pigments within the client’s hair. But, even with a perfect formation, if your client isn’t caring for their hair well, it may fade brassy. This is due to residual phaeomelanin that tends to reappear. As artificial pigments wear away with washings and the environment, brassy undertones will peak through. Discover quick tips to tell your clients to avoid hair brassiness in their hair by enrolling in the underlying pigment course. 


As a stylist, you can follow some simple rules to outlaw the unwanted brassiness for your client. Beginning with an accurate consultation, you should assess the client’s natural level precisely. Don’t eyeball it. 


Nonetheless, remember that level systems are not universal. Each color line uses its own, so don’t assume you know it from the top of your head. Exactness is critical!


By determining the accurate level of the client’s natural hair will allow you to figure out what you’re working with, but it all really boils down to three options: Red, orange, or yellow on the underlying pigment chart. To break it down:


Higher levels have less warmth, less pigment weight, and are easier to control. 


Lower levels have more warmth, more pigment weight, and are harder to control. 


This is what makes figuring out the level accurately so vital.


discovering an approach to underlying pigment

Unquestionably, hundreds of stylists bring to the table different methods of discovering, understanding, and manipulating underlying pigment. Nevertheless, Heather, at Beauty School Remix, discusses her method to a tee. Thoroughly explaining with helpful visuals and stories, enrolling in the course Underlying Pigments gives you a full understanding of an efficient method of using a pigment chart. Additionally, learn how to eliminate unwanted color for all your client’s needs. Without a doubt, you won’t want to miss out on this exclusive opportunity to learn about this hand-crafted chart and scale. 


Enroll here today. You won’t regret it. 


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