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Have you ever tested the pH of the products you have in the salon? Maybe it’s about time to. I’m going to encourage you to become an informed consumer about all the products you use on your clients. Because only then are you able to make your client’s hair react the way you need it to, consistently, time after time, regardless of the brand of color you use.

We manipulate the pH of the hair to get it to perform the way we want it to. Because of that you need to have a strong understanding in what the pH scale is, what it measures, and how that relates to the structure of the hair.

A big part of this lesson is also devoted to exploring the advantages of coloring damp hair instead of dry hair. Plus, we will cover the best order-of-operations to tone your clients efficiently.

Here’s what you’ll learn:

    • Defining important parts of the hair structure
    • What role do the hair cuticle & hair cortex play in haircolor
    • Hair shaft structure
    • Why the pH Scale is important to us
    • What is the pH of the Scalp
    • Why I don’t shampoo before toner
    • Why haircolor should be applied to damp hair
    • Can hair actually “get used” to a shampoo

After purchasing this lesson, my biggest piece of advice is to watch the video first, and then watch it again while answering the workbook questions. It’s important that you actually understand your answers so you can remember this information while working behind the chair.

This Single Lesson Purchase Includes 1 video lesson (31 minutes) and 1 workbook.

*If you’re interested in purchasing all three lessons in Color Theory Review Course, please click here.

Meet Your Teacher

Heather Ward Kepshire, Creator

  • Educated in San Francisco
  • Refined in Boston
  • Thrived Everywhere Else


I’m a hairstylist and a haircolor curriculum creator. I know first hand that none of us receives the haircolor education we thought we would get in Beauty School, no matter how much we paid for it. When I graduated and passed my State Boards I knew virtually nothing about haircolor formulation.


Yet still 15 years later, newly licensed hairstylists continue to struggle like I once did with haircolor formulation because they are not being taught how to formulate haircolor, consult with a client, or build a loyal following.


I am bridging the gap between the Beauty School education you received, and all the things you need to know about haircolor formulation to help you thrive behind the chair quickly.


Every hairstylist deserves the chance to have a profitable career, regardless of the salon they work in or the brand of products they use. If you want to make more money, feel more confident with haircolor formulation, and get so popular with clients you have no choice but to keep raising your prices, you’re in the right place.

Hair Structure & pH Scale
  • 1 Video Lesson
  • 1 Workbook
Color Theory Review Bundle
  • 3 Video Lessons
  • 3 Workbooks
  • Salon Exercises
12 Lesson Master Class
  • 12 Video Lessons
  • 12 Workbooks
  • 12 Workbook Answer Keys
  • Salon Exercises
  • Model Release Forms
  • Headsheets
  • Color Wheels
  • Underlying Pigment Chart
  • Color Maps

Course, Hair Structure & pH Scale

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

When does the course start and finish?

The course starts immediately after purchase! It is a completely self-paced online course – you decide when you start and when you finish.


What if I am unhappy with the course?

We would never want you to be unhappy! If you are unsatisfied with your purchase, contact us in the first 30 days and we will give you a full refund.


How can color education be brand-neutral?

It’s simple, color theory is just science and rules. Every color line will have their own nuances, but this is all the real information you need to get you up to speed and formulating confidently.


What is the ph scale in hairdressing?

When we are altering the color or texture of our client’s hair, what we are really doing is using the pH scale to soften or harden their hair, to allow us to make long lasting changes.


Why is ph balance important for hair?

Hair is 4.5 to 5.5 on the pH scale. If we raise or lower the pH of the hair too much, we risk over processing it. Once we alter a clients hair with haircolor or texture products, we need to return the hair to it’s natural pH.  Much like the way eye drops are pH balanced to your natural tears, hair treatments, conditioners and hair products need to be pH balanced to the hair.


What are the three layers of the hair shaft?

The hair shaft has three layers: The Cuticle, The Cortex, and The Medulla.  The Medulla doesn’t actually exist in all hair textures and for the purposes of hairdressing, the Medulla is not that important.  The Cuticle and Cortex are the most important parts of the hair for any hairdresser to study.


What is the structure of human hair?

Human hair has a cuticle that serves as “the door” to open a hair strand and allow products to reach the cortex.  The cortex is where all the magic happens!  That’s where melanin lives and that’s where haircolorists do all their best work. Without understanding the cortex, you cannot truly become an expert in haircolor theory.