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When we formulate color for our clients, we are oftentimes faced with accommodating for their gray hair. Although that presents different formulation considerations than pigmented hair, it’s very straightforward and predictable once you know how to do it.

However, there is a big factor that is often overlooked, and it’s about your tools:

Are you formulating with a Pure Tone Color Line or a Balanced Color Line? Not knowing the type of color you are using can lead to mistakes like a color formula “browning out”, or coverage that is too sheer. Plus we need to take it one step further to really understand the types of coverage you’ll get with different strengths of color and different strengths of developer, so you can quickly make the right decisions and formulate to get perfect coverage while still giving your client the maintenance they can handle.

Since most gray formulation clients tend to be single process clients, we’ll also discuss how to turn something as basic as a single process haircolor into a signature service, and how you can do that without adding much additional time (but you can charge them more money!). This is the good stuff: Any time you spend a little extra effort to turn something basic into something incredible, you will become irreplaceable in your client’s eyes.

Here’s what you’ll learn:

    • How to Classify Gray Hair
    • Replacing Missing Pigment with “N”
    • Pure Tone Color Lines vs Balanced Color Lines
    • The 4 Types of Gray Coverage
    • How to Repigment Hair
    • My Signature Single Process Hair Color Application
    • Best haircolor for Resistant Gray
    • How to make an “N” from scratch

There’s also a fun bonus towards the end that will show you how to use your color wheel to make an “N” from scratch, which means you can learn how to formulate for gray hair even if you don’t have an “N” to use. Plus, the workbook includes head sheets of my Single Process Application, as well as blank head sheets for your to create your own.

After purchasing this lesson, my biggest piece of advice is to watch the video first, and then watch it again while answering the workbook questions. It’s important that you actually understand your answers so you can remember this information while working behind the chair.

This Single Lesson Purchase Includes 1 video lesson (29 minutes) and 1 workbook.

*If you’re interested in purchasing all three lessons in Advanced Formulation Course, please click here.

Meet Your Teacher

Heather Ward Kepshire, Creator

  • Educated in San Francisco
  • Refined in Boston
  • Thrived Everywhere Else


I’m a hairstylist and a haircolor curriculum creator. I know first hand that none of us receives the haircolor education we thought we would get in Beauty School, no matter how much we paid for it. When I graduated and passed my State Boards I knew virtually nothing about haircolor formulation.


Yet still 15 years later, newly licensed hairstylists continue to struggle like I once did with haircolor formulation because they are not being taught how to formulate haircolor, consult with a client, or build a loyal following.


I am bridging the gap between the Beauty School education you received, and all the things you need to know about haircolor formulation to help you thrive behind the chair quickly.


Every hairstylist deserves the chance to have a profitable career, regardless of the salon they work in or the brand of products they use. If you want to make more money, feel more confident with haircolor formulation, and get so popular with clients you have no choice but to keep raising your prices, you’re in the right place.

Gray Blending Formulation
  • 1 Video Lesson
  • 1 Workbook
Advanced Formulation Bundle
  • 3 Video Lessons
  • 3 Workbooks
  • Salon Exercises
12 Lesson Master Class
  • 12 Video Lessons
  • 12 Workbooks
  • 12 Workbook Answer Keys
  • Salon Exercises
  • Model Release Forms
  • Headsheets
  • Color Wheels
  • Underlying Pigment Chart
  • Color Maps

Course & Gray Blending Formulation

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

When does the course start and finish?

The course starts immediately after purchase! It is a completely self-paced online course – you decide when you start and when you finish.


What if I am unhappy with the course?

We would never want you to be unhappy! If you are unsatisfied with your purchase, contact us in the first 30 days and we will give you a full refund.


How can color education be brand-neutral?

It’s simple, color theory is just science and rules. Every color line will have their own nuances, but this is all the real information you need to get you up to speed and formulating confidently.


What is a single process color?

A single process hair color is typically one hair color formula that is applied to the entire head, sometimes just the roots, sometimes root to ends.


What is the best hair color for resistant grays?

Resistant gray hair typically needs a type of hair color that contains a small amount of ammonia, and contains a higher dye molecule load.  Another factor that helps is making sure the formula processes the maximum processing time.


How long does a single process color last?
The longevity of a single process color depends on if it was a semi, demi, or permanent color, as well as the client’s texture.  A single process can last anywhere from 4-8 weeks.