The Advanced Blonding Course Bundle is perfect for a hair stylist that already has a deep understanding of color theory and formulation, as well as a good grasp on how to formulate for underlying pigment with their current color line. These are the lessons that will give you a strong education about how to create a beautifully crafted blonde. By the end of it, you should be very confident with your:
- Lightener choice
- How to lowlight intelligently
- Whether or not to use heat to process
- Your “signature” foil highlighting pattern
- How to execute a base break haircolor formulation (and how to know if you want to do one!)
This will help elevate your work in the eyes of your clients, and separate you from your peers as you become and expert in blondes.
This Three Lesson Bundle includes:
- Lesson One: Lighteners 1 Video Lesson (29 min) and 1 workbook
- Lesson Two: Foil Highlighting Theory, 1 Video Lesson (34 min) and 1 workbook
- Lesson Three: Breaking Down Base Breaks, 1 Video Lesson (28 min) and 1 workbook
- Bonus: Salon Exercises
Lesson One: Lighteners
It’s impossible to talk about blonding without discussing how important lighteners are. And they carry so many questions….
What volume developer should I use for lightener?
How long should it process for?
Is it lifted enough?
What kind of lightener should I use?
My lightener is too thick, how can I make it thinner? (hint: don’t add more developer)
My lightener is too thin, how can I make it thicker? (hint: don’t add less developer)
Can I use heat with it?
Sometimes blonde hair goes hand in hand with damaged or stressed hair, but it doesn’t have to be like that. Your first responsibility is to protect the integrity of the client’s hair, right? Lighteners are the one tool in our salon that can cause the most potential damage to the hair if they are misused. It’s time to really shine a spotlight on how to use them correctly, how to pick the right one for the job you need to do, and how to avoid the most common mistakes hairstylist make with lighteners.
What you’ll Learn:
- The Difference Between Lighteners and Artificial Haircolor
- Advantages and Disadvantages of Lighteners
- Optimal Working Time of Lighteners
- The Types of Lighteners
- Your Developer Choices
- The Smart Way to Adjust the Consistency of your product
In addition to that, there is a huge debate among our industry is whether or not to use heat with lighteners. We are really going to dispel myths on that one and get real. I’m going to tell you which scenarios I use heat with lightener, which scenarios I’m not likely to use heat with my lightener, and which scenario I won’t ever use heat with lightener for. Heat is not the enemy: Misinformation is the enemy.
Plus, a bonus Step-by-Step On-Scalp Lightener Application with a real client of mine. Including all the the dirty details from application, to processing, to rising, to toning, and how to avoid the biggest mistake…. Rinsing out too soon. By the end of this lesson you will be on your way to becoming an expert with lightener.
Lesson Two: Foil Highlighting Theory
The whole point of highlighting hair is to draw attention toward (or away from) an area. Lots of highlights will make the entire color palette appear lighter, whereas adding dimensional depth can further customize your work. There is nothing new about the concept of highlighting hair. In fact, the desire to highlight hair dates back to Ancient Greece as early as 4 B.C. But the the success of the process really began to take off in the early 1800’s. And the use of foils were a game-changer for highlights.
Foil placement and patterns are the easy part for us. Highlighting hair comes with two big issues: Timing and Formulation. Since lighteners are progressive, if that’s what’s in your foil, how are you going to get all of your sections lifted evenly? And when you are lowlighting hair, how do you formulate to balance out the Natural Level and the Existing Level without lifting the root, and without getting muddy ends?
What you’ll Learn:
- Purpose of Highlighting
- Highlighting Vocabulary
- What’s the Real Difference Between Lightness vs Brightness
- Everything You Need to Know About Lowlighting
- Foil Placement & Partings
- How to Be Successful With Your Foil Timing
- Avoiding Common Foil Folding Problems
- How to Create a Signature Foil Pattern
We will also discuss Signature Foil Patterns. During your career, the first foil highlighting pattern you learn will become your obsession. You’ll slave over it, perfect it, and over time it will morph it into what you need it to be and it will represent your aesthetic as a colorist. Then it will become your favorite, your go-to, and finally your “signature pattern”. This lesson includes a very detailed explanation of My Signature Foil Highlighting Pattern for you to use as a starting point, and all three variations of it:
- Partial Foil Highlight for Side-Parters
- Partial Foil Highlight for Middle-Parters/Hair-Flippers
- Full Foil Highlight
Lesson Three: Breaking Down Base Breaks
Base Breaks can be a blonde’s best friend. They are an excellent technique for hairstylists that really care about the finished result of the overall color palette, and a base break will ensure there is brightness everywhere with full-on tonal refinement. It’s a modern, elevated blonde look, particularly with foils.
A base break is designed to lift a client’s natural base color 1 to 1.5 levels, usually after highlighting them, and will accomplish the following things:
- Soften Highlights
- Blend a color palette together
- Give more brightness than just highlighting alone
- Reduce contrast between base color and highlights
- Grow in less obvious than a traditional single process
I want to keep this lesson as realistic as possible for you. The two mixing ratios I use for my base breaks, everyday in the salon, are just with regular permanent color. I don’t use anything that is specifically formulated to be a base break. Permanent color makes an excellent base break, as kong as the mixing ratio is correct.
What you’ll Learn:
- Who the Ideal Base Break Client Is
- Who You Should Never Do a Base Break On
- Why A Base Break Formula Is Unique
- Base Breaking Formulation Guidelines
- Two Possible Mixing Ratios
- A Step By Step At-the-Chair Application
- Real Client Scenarios and Their Custom Formulations
- Why Hair Texture Matters So Much
There are really no wrong answer for a base break formula. There are “less right answers” and “more right answers”, but the differences between formulas are usually very subtle. You just need to stay true to the color wheel.
Also included in this lesson are:
- A Base Break Cheat Sheet with basic suggestions for first time base breaks: including all your available options to formulate a base break for a level 8,7,or 6 client regardless of the color line you use.
- And 4 real client scenarios with pictures and formulations, exactly like you see everyday behind the chair.
<strong “=””>*Single Lessons are available for purchase if you just need a refresher.
Meet Your Teacher
Heather Ward Kepshire, Creator
- Educated in San Francisco
- Refined in Boston
- Thrived Everywhere Else
I’m a hairstylist and a haircolor curriculum creator. I know first hand that none of us receives the haircolor education we thought we would get in Beauty School, no matter how much we paid for it. When I graduated and passed my State Boards I knew virtually nothing about haircolor formulation.
Yet still 15 years later, newly licensed hairstylists continue to struggle like I once did with haircolor formulation because they are not being taught how to formulate haircolor, consult with a client, or build a loyal following.
I am bridging the gap between the Beauty School education you received, and all the things you need to know about haircolor formulation to help you thrive behind the chair quickly.
Every hairstylist deserves the chance to have a profitable career, regardless of the salon they work in or the brand of products they use. If you want to make more money, feel more confident with haircolor formulation, and get so popular with clients you have no choice but to keep raising your prices, you’re in the right place.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
- 1 Video Lesson
- 1 Workbook
- 3 Video Lessons
- 3 Workbooks
- Salon Exercises
- 12 Video Lessons
- 12 Workbooks
- 12 Workbook Answer Keys
- Salon Exercises
- Model Release Forms
- Color Wheels
- Underlying Pigment Chart
- Color Maps